
I use these extender chains on my crystal chokers, and they're useful for any necklace (or other jewelry) that needs to be adjustable. It takes some practice to get the wire-wrapping down, so try practicing with copper wire or something similarly inexpensive before getting into the silver (unless you're very brave).
Materials
sterling silver cable chain, ~3mm
sterling silver headpin or wire, ~24g
bead to match necklace, ~4mm
jump ring(s)
* The cable chain in the picture is 2.8mm from Monsterslayer, one of my favorite online stores for sterling silver findings.
Tools
wire cutter
flat-nose pliers
round-nose pliers
chain-nose pliers (optional)
file (optional but recommended)
crimping pliers (optional but very helpful)
Procedure
I've revised the tutorial to be more headpin-friendly, after purchasing some headpins and discovering how much easier they are to use than raw wire. The wire method is still a nice substitute for headpins, and is handy for other projects too. If you are using headpins, you'll be able to skip some steps as noted.
When I wrap with wire, I like to work directly from the spool. I find it easier to manipulate the long piece of wire rather than a short end. It also cuts down on wasted silver. You may prefer to cut a short piece of wire, as it can get cumbersome to deal with the whole spool. In that case, you'll have to do some test runs (copper is good for this) to determine the best length to cut. These directions are geared toward working directly from the spool.
1. Decide how long you want the chain to be. (The chain in the picture is two inches long.) Measure out that much chain and cut through the next link - not the last link in the chain you want. Add the cut link to your silver scrap stash, unless it's sturdy enough to be used as a jump ring.
* If you're using a headpin, skip to step 5.
2. Check the end of the wire and file it if it's objectionably sharp.
3. String the last link in the chain onto the wire. Then do the same with the bead.
4. With the flat-nose pliers, bend the very tip of the wire back on itself and press it tight. (See the closeup picture above.)
5. Bring the bead down to the bent wire. Make sure the bead won't slip over the doubled wire.
or
Put the bead onto the headpin and let it settle against the head.
6. With the chain-nose or flat-nose pliers, make a 45 degree bend about 3/16" (2mm) above where the bead lies. You'll need the space for the wire wraps, but you don't want a huge gap. A good general guideline is to leave a space about 3 wire-widths long.
7. With the round-nose pliers, form a loop after the bend. You'll have to adjust the position of the pliers once or twice to get a nice loop. You should end up with the wire tail at an angle of slightly less than 90 degrees from the straight wire.
(That's a pretty big loop, but what do you want with Microsoft Paint...)
8. Slip the chain down into the loop you just made. You'll probably have to carefully jockey the wire a little.
or
String the last link in the chain onto the headpin, so that it goes into the loop you just made. See above about jockeying the wire.
8a. Are you sure you put the chain into the loop? You'll be awfully mad if you finish the wrap without the chain. (I know this from experience.)
9. Now you'll wrap the wire tail around the straight wire. With the chain-nose pliers, hold on to the loop with one hand. (Be careful of the chain.) With your other hand, hold the wire tail taut. Turn the piece with the pliers rather than trying to wrap with the wire tail, but keep tension on the tail against the straight wire. You'll have to do it in small increments and reposition the pliers often, but it will give you a tighter wrap.
Keep the wire tail snug against both the straight wire underneath it and the previous wraps.
10. When there's a small amount of room left before you hit the bead, trim the wire as close to the wrap as you can get. (Be careful not to let the rest of the wire fly up when you cut it away from the wrap - protect your eyes.) File the cut end if necessary. Flatten the end down against the other wraps. Crimping pliers are great for this - the round bay is the perfect size to go around the wrap.
11. Use a jump ring to attach the free end of the chain to the jewelry.
Theresa Olin, 2004-2007